Living in Canada we have to survive below-freezing winter temperatures that can cause the water in your pipes to freeze, expand and burst your pipes. To help prevent this, install a stop-and-waste valve on the water line to drain water from pipes.
\nMaterials you will need:<\/p>\n
Pipe cutter
\nSteel wool or sandpaper
\nLead-free solder
\nSoldering paste
\nTorch kit (self igniter preferred)
\nLength of 1\/2" copper pipe
\nStop-and-waste valve
\n1\/2" copper fittings
\n1. Determine a location for the valve on a water line in or near a heated area. The closer to exterior wall the better. Ensure access with torch will not be fire hazard.
\n2. Shut off the main valve where water comes into your home. Open the lowest fixture in your house to drain out any water.
\n3. Use a pipe cutter to remove the desired section of pipe. Rotate the pipe cutter around the pipe, gradually tightening it until it cuts through. Place a bucket underneath the cut area to catch any water remaining in the line. Clean any burrs from the end of the cut pipe with steel wool. Cleaning tool is available to clean outside and inside of pipe.
\n4. Temporarily remove the petcock (small screw) from the valve. If not used to soldering it is also recommended that you remove the valve assemble prior to heating.
\nBe sure to install the valve in the right direction. An arrow points in the direction of the water flow.
\n5. Cut a section of copper pipe to the appropriate length. Allow a little extra length for a good fit. Make sure the new pipe is the same diameter as the existing water line (usually 1\/2").
\n6. Use steel wool to clean the pipe end and inside the stop-and-waste valve.
\n7. Spread soldering flux on the outside of the pipe end and inside the valve fitting.
\n8. Slide the valve fitting onto the end of the pipe.
\nAlways use safety goggles when working with solder and a torch.
\n9. Use a propane torch to heat the fitting and the pipe where they connect. For best results, hold the edge of the blue flame right against the pipe.
\n10. Push approximately 2" of solder into the joint where the valve connects to the pipe. The heat will melt the solder and allow it to seep into the connection. Solder completely around the pipe-valve connection.
\nPractice the soldering technique on scrap pieces of pipe and copper fittings before trying it on the valve.
\n11. Use the same soldering techniques to install the new assembly to the water line.
\nDepending on the installation, it may be necessary to use inexpensive copper fittings to connect new sections of pipe to the existing water line. These fittings are widely available in different configurations and diameters.
\nReplace the petcock ( and valve assemble if removed ), and open the main water line to check for leaks.
\nBefore temperatures dip below freezing, shut off the valve, and open any spigots that are "downstream." Then remove the petcock screw to drain the pipe. Use bucket to collect drained water.
\nIf any sections of pipe "upstream" of the new valve are in an unheated area, cover them with foam pipe insulation.<\/p>\n
This valuable tips are brought to you by the Orillia Home Inspector and was Written by Roger Frost<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Before temperatures dip below freezing, shut off the valve, and open any spigots that are “downstream.” Then remove the petcock screw to drain the pipe. Use bucket to collect drained water.
\nIf any sections of pipe “upstream” of the new valve are in an unheated area, cover them with foam pipe insulation.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-26","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\n