The water to be treated passes through the water softener’s bed of the resin;
* negatively-charged resins absorb and bind metal ions, which are always positively charged. These resins initially contain sodium ions, which are displaced into the water stream by the more strongly-attracted di-positive ions of magnesium and calcium.
As the water passes through both kinds of resin, the hardness ions replace the sodium which are released into the water. For most purposes, the low levels of salt in the treated water are innocuous. However, because of the increase in sodium concentration, some people believe water softened in this way is not suitable for regular consumption.
Regeneration
As these resins become converted to their Ca2+ form they gradually lose their effectiveness and must be regenerated. This is accomplished by passing a concentrated brine solution though them, causing the above processes to be reversed. Here lies one of the drawbacks of this system: most of the salt employed in the regeneration process gets flushed out of the system and may be released into the soil or drainage— something that can have damaging consequences to the environment, especially in arid regions. Because of this, many jurisdications prohibit such release, and require users to dispose of the spent brine at an approved site or to use a commercial service company.
Problems with hard water
Waters that have been in contact with limestone and other sediments tend to acquire dissolved ions, mainly of calcium Ca2+ and magnesium Mg2+. The positive electrical charges of these ions are balanced by the presence of anions (negative ions), of which bicarbonate HCO3– and carbonate CO32– are the most important. These ions have their origins in carbon dioxide which is present in all waters exposed to the atmosphere and also in groundwaters. Water softeners heldissipatete this.
These "hardness ions" cause two major kinds of problems:
* The metal ions react with soaps and calcium sensitive detergents), hindering their ability to lather properly and forming an unsightly precipitate— the familiar scum or "bathtub ring". Presence of "hardness ions" also inhibits the cleaning effect of detergent formulations.
* More seriously, calcium and magnesium carbonates tend to precipitate out as adherent solids on the surfaces of pipes and especially on the hot heat exchanger surfaces of boilers. The resulting scale buildup can restrict water flow in pipes. In boilers, the deposits act as thermal insulation that impedes the flow of heat into the water; this not only reduces heating efficiency, but allows the metal to overheat which, in a pressurized system, can lead to catastrophic failure.
Conventional water-softening devices intended for household use depend on an ion-exchange resin in which "hardness" ions trade places with sodium that are electrostatically bound to the anionic functional groups of the polymeric resin . A class of minerals known as zeolites also exhibit ion-exchange properties and were widely used in earlier water softeners.
Water Softener – Resource
A Review of Popular Water Softener Products
With so many types and brands of water softeners to choose from, how does a consumer decide what is right for their needs? How does one compare water softeners and find the one that will work the best for them? When it comes to buying water softeners, being an educated consumer is the best policy. Explore different types and manufacturers. Compare prices. Other things to consider are what type of environment the water softener will be set up in, size, installation, construction of the unit, convenience, and water softener rating which indicates the amount of minerals that can be removed before the unit needs to be recharged.
Kinetico water softeners are favored for their convenience; however, they are expensive in terms of the unit’s cost as well as the price of upkeep. They recharge based on volume, eliminating the need for a schedule. Kinetico water softeners are also non-electric units.
Culligan services residential customers, offering purchase and rental options for their water softeners. They also offer a salt delivery service with the purchase of a water softener. Culligan is favored for its durability, but some have trouble with salt refills and strength of some of the components. Culligan is also said to be good at removing iron from the water supply.
Kenmore, in addition to being known for its air filtration and other household appliances, offers a range of water softeners, from the very basic to the heavy-duty models. The Kenmore systems also offer extras like the ability to filter out larger particles and added settings that make the units more efficient. Kenmore contends that the cost of everyday household upkeep can be cut in half with the use of a water softener system.
General Electric, or GE, founded by none other than Thomas Edison, offers a diverse line of products, including water softeners. The business is run on the principles, ""imagine, solve, build, and lead."" GE offers water softeners small enough to accommodate a single-person household all the way up to a unit that will serve a household of four or more people. The GE water softeners include a technology called SmartSoft, which works through a low-capacity transformer to save energy, minimize salt loss, and gauge water softening needs.
There are numerous water softener vendors out there who sell both ionic exchange and magnetic water softening systems. To find the best water softeners is a daunting task, but a good start might be to visit your local hardware store. You can also get information from people around you such as neighbors or coworkers.
Water Softeners Info provides detailed information about magnetic and ionic exchange water softeners, home water softener systems and kits, product reviews and comparisons, water softener salt, and more. Water Softeners Info is the sister site of Dishwashers Web.
Water Softener – Resource
What are Water Softeners?
Soap scum. Stiff clothing. Clogged pipes. No matter what you try, it’s hard to get your surfaces clean. Scale builds up. Dishes come out of the dishwasher with spots on them. All of these problems occur because of hard water, a frustrating but fixable situation.
The term, ""hard water,"" refers to water with a high mineral content. The most common minerals that cause water hardness are calcium and magnesium. As water is absorbed into the ground, the minerals are pulled from the earth and eventually end up in a household’s water supply. Hard water can clog household plumbing.
Water hardness, or how much of a mineral is present in water, is measured in grains per gallon (GPG), parts per million (PPM), or milligrams per liter (MG/L). Water up to 1 GPG is considered soft, water; from 1 to 3.5 GPG is considered moderate, and water 3.5 to 7 GPG is hard water. Kits used to test water hardness can be purchased at a pool supplier or from a water softener dealer.
Many water softeners plug right into the household water supply. Ionic exchange water softeners consist of negatively charged plastic beads, a brine tank, and a regenerating system with a timer or other monitoring device. Sodium or potassium chloride is added to the brine tank when regeneration is necessary. Home water softeners range in price from $400 to $1,200, and the salt ranges from $5 to $7 per bag. Price depends on type, size, and type of softening agent. Alternatively, magnetic water softeners consist of only 2 magnets attached to the outside or inside of water pipes.
Water softeners work by replacing ions of the minerals that cause hardness with ""softer"" ions. Water is filtered through charged plastic beads and the magnesium or calcium ions are replaced with sodium or potassium ions. In the case of magnetic water softeners, magnetic energy causes chemical changes in the minerals.
Using water softeners poses no health risks, except for those who are on sodium-restricted diets. Keep bottled water on hand for cooking and consumption, or use potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride to soften. Potassium chloride is more expensive than sodium chloride. There are also no health risks associated with choosing not to soften water.
Written by Roger Frost
Picking the right caulk can be the hardest part of any caulking job. Most hardware stores carry dozens of different products, each promising better results than the other. If you use the wrong caulk, the joint will fail long before it should, which means that you’ll need to do the job all over again. Although some manufacturers now include helpful job-specific labels, others provide little information or overstate their products’ performance. Here’s how to pick the right product for whatever job is at hand.
CHEMISTRY COUNTS
Despite the dizzying selection, caulks are all made from one of four base, or backbone, polymers: latex, silicone, polyurethane or rubber. The base polymer determines specific characteristics, such as what materials it will adhere to, how easily joints can be smoothed, durability and paintability. Most caulks are sold in long tubes, and you apply them using an inexpensive, hand-pumped caulk gun.
LATEX
Also labeled as acrylic caulk, vinyl caulk or sealant, water-based latex products are the easiest to use, the least expensive and handle the widest range of applications. Latex caulks don’t contain volatile chemicals, which means you can smooth joints with a wet finger and clean up excess with soap and water. All latex caulks can be painted, or you can also find a wide palette of pretinted caulks.
Latex-based caulks break into two sub-groups: less expensive acrylics and better-quality "siliconized" latexes. Acrylic latex is fine for sealing areas that won’t face major temperature changes or high moisture levels, such as interior windows, doors and trim. Siliconized latex caulks contain a small amount of silanes (a form of silicone) to promote better adhesion. (This is not the same as 100 percent silicone caulk; see below.)
The best siliconized latexes are a good choice for heavy-duty work, such as exterior windows and doors, and caulking seams in kitchens and bathrooms, and to keep moisture out of walls and floors.
SILICONE
Silicone sealants were first used to bond glass panels to skyscrapers – afar more demanding job than most home improvement projects. Because they stay flexible at all temperatures, are completely waterproof, bond well to almost everything and won’t support mildew growth, silicones are used around sinks, tubs and shower stalls.
Silicones come in two types: neutral cure or acid cure. Acid-cure silicones work best on nonporous surfaces such as glass and glazed tile, but they can corrode metal and etch some plastics. Neutral-cure silicones work well on metal and wood .
Silicones aren’t perfect. For starters, these caulks are hard to smooth, and most won’t hold paint (one exception is GE’s new XST paintable silicone). If you need to recaulk, the old residue is almost impossible to remove.
POLYURETHANE
Polyurethanes excel as outdoor caulks. Since they are non-corrosive, extremely tear resistant and stick reliably to almost anything, they’re a good choice for joints between dissimilar materials, such as metal-to-masonry joints around chimneys, wood-to-concrete joints at the sill plate, and masonry joints in driveways and concrete slabs.
Polyurethanes are not naturally ultraviolet resistant, so exterior joints should be painted or otherwise protected from sunlight. Tooling joints isn’t as easy as with latex caulks, but easier than with silicones.
The biggest downside to this type is price: Polyurethanes are more expensive than most other caulks. Use them where strength, durability and weatherproofing are most important.
RUBBER
These products are made with synthetic rubber compounds such as isoprene, butadiene, nitrile and styrene. Rubber caulks will also stick to almost everything (but they melt styrofoam) and will even work with damp and oily materials. Their biggest downside is their smell; the solvents used are highly flammable and dangerous to breathe. For that reason, this caulk should only be used outdoors. Another drawback is shrinkage: After the solvent evaporates, the bead can shrink by as much as 35 percent.
Handy? Get Your Gun
For most projects, you’ll want to use a standard 10-ounce caulk cartridge. For it, you’ll need a caulk gun ( above ). There are two basic types of hand-operated guns. Ratchet guns (about $3) have a notched piston, which pushes the caulk out. To stop the flow of caulk, you have to twist the piston with your free hand to disengage the ratchet. Smooth-rod guns ($5 to $10) are easier to use. To release piston pressure and stop the flow of caulk, you simply press the quick-release plate above the handle with your thumb.
For small jobs, like caulking around a new faucet or making minor repairs, consider buying a squeezable tube (right).
LAYING A PERFECT BEAD
Once you’ve decided what caulk to use, the perfect caulk job depends upon careful prep work and application. To clean old caulk and soap scum from tiles and porcelain surfaces, first use a razor knife or caulk remover then wipe down the entire surface with a residueless solvent, like isopropyl alcohol. Remove any mildew with a solution of one part bleach to two parts water. For stone, brick and concrete surfaces, use a wire brush to remove dirt and crystallized minerals, then vacuum up loose debris. With wood, scrape away loose paint and old caulk, then prime any bare spots.
Most caulks are designed to be used between 40 and 90 degrees. On the lower end of their working temperature, most caulks get thick and difficult to squeeze out. To prevent this, keep the tubes indoors until you need them, or store them in an insulated cooler when working outside in the cold.
These removable caulks are good choices for sealing drafts around older, double-hung windows.
To start a tube, most pros cut the tip of the tube at a 45-degree angle, although some prefer a straight cut for caulking corners. Whichever style you choose, don’t make the opening too big. Cut the tip where its diameter matches the width of the gap you’re filling. Then poke a hole in the tip to release the caulk. (Most caulk guns have a handy fold-out tool for this.)
Caulked joints should have a concave shape, with thick sides to ensure good adhesion and a thinner middle to allow the joint to expand and contract. If the caulk sticks completely to the back of the crack it will be less able to stretch and more likely to pull away or tear. To prevent this, you can use a plastic foam backer rod in gaps over one-quarter inch thick. Available in several diameters, backer rods not only prevent sagging, they also provide extra insulation and save caulk.
For an extra-neat caulk job, mask both sides of the gap with painter’s tape. As you caulk, maintain even pressure and keep the tip moving.
To apply the caulk, the pros are equally divided between the push and pull methods. Pull advocates say their method produces a smoother bead, while caulk pushers claim their method forces more caulk into the joint. Whichever you choose, the key is to squeeze out an even, full bead that completely fills the crack. As you near the end of the joint, release the handle pressure to avoid excess.
Finish by smoothing the bead. This tooling does more than smooth the surface: It forces material into the gap, fills minor voids and pushes material against the sides to ensure good adhesion. The most common tooling device is your finger, but you can also use an ice cube, the back of a spoon or a commercial device. Whatever you use, try to tool the joint just once: Overtooling can remove too much material from the joint. Minor bumps can be trimmed off with a razor blade after the caulk has cured.
Canadians maybe entitled for some compensation from the W.R. Grace and Co settlement proposal in response to allegations of health problems associated with Zonalite and other vermiculite products produced by the Libby mine in Montana. There are forms and information available here.
In September 2008, W.R. Grace and Co. proposed to pay $6.5 million to settle a lawsuit launched by Canadian homeowners. Thundersky called the settlement ‘an insult’ though Montreal-based Michel Bélanger said settling with the company may be the only viable option since the company is facing bankruptcy in the U.S.
Vermiculite is a mica-like mineral mined around the world and used in a variety of commercial and consumer products because it is fire-resistant and has good insulation qualities. Of concern is vermiculite ore produced by the Libby Mine in Montana from the 1920’s to 1990. It was sold as Zonolite ® Attic Insulation and possibly other brands in Canada during that time. Vermiculite from the Libby Mine may contain amphibole asbestos. The Libby Mine supplied the majority of the world market in vermiculite-based insulation.
Products made from vermiculite ore produced by the Libby Mine were not widely used after the mid-1980’s and have not been on the market in Canada since 1990. Not all vermiculite produced before 1990 contains amphibole asbestos fibres. However, to be safe and in the absence of evidence to the contrary, it is reasonable to assume that if your building has older vermiculite-based insulation, it may contain some amphibole asbestos.
EPA and ATSDR strongly recommend that: Vermiculite insulation be left undisturbed in your attic. Due to the uncertainties with existing testing techniques, it is best to assume that the material may contain asbestos.
You should not store boxes or other items in your attic if retrieving the material will disturb the insulation. Children should not be allowed to play in an attic with open areas of vermiculite insulation. If you plan to remodel or conduct renovations that would disturb the vermiculite, hire professionals trained and certified to handle asbestos to safely remove the material. You should never attempt to remove the insulation yourself. Hire professionals trained and certified to safely remove the vermiculite.
The U.S. EPA has stated there was no danger as early as the year 2000, and Health Canada was reportedly telling people that if left un-disturbed that there was little of no danger. The mine in Libby Montana was aware of problems with asbestos as early as the 1960’s but failed to act, presumably putting financial gain ahead of worker safety. There are disturbing similarities between the tobacco industry and the vermiculite insulation company actions when faced with the knowledge that they are actually causing severe health problems to the public, they bury the reports and merrily continue business as usual.
What is a Building Envelope
A building envelope is the separation between the interior and the exterior environments of a building . It serves as the outer shell to protect the indoor environment as well as to facilitate its climate control . Building envelope design is a specialized area of architectural and engineering practice that draws from all areas of building science and indoor climate control.
Building envelope design includes four major performance objectives:
- Structural integrity
- Moisture control
- Temperature control
- Control of air pressure boundaries of sorts
Control of air includes air movement through the components of the building envelope (interstitial) itself, as well as into and out of the interior space, which affects building insulation greatly.
The physical components of the envelope include the foundation , roof , walls , doors and windows . The dimensions, performance and compatibility of materials, fabrication process and details, their connections and interactions are the main factors that determine the effectiveness and durability of the building enclosure system.
Common measures of the effectiveness of a building envelope include physical protection from weather and climate (comfort), indoor air quality (hygiene and public health), durability and energy efficiency. In order to achieve these objectives, all building enclosure systems must include a solid structure, a drainage plane, an air barrier, a thermal barrier, and may include a vapor barrier. Moisture control is essential in cold climates.
What is a Vapour Barrier?
A vapour barrier is an impermeable membrane that blocks the flow of air through the building envelope. A vapor barrier is an essential part of the building envelope. Because the purpose of a vapor barrier is not obvious, this important component is often omitted or installed incorrectly. The main purpose of a vapor barrier is preventing the passage of the water vapor that is contained in air. Vapor barriers and the insulation affect each other. They must both be installed so that they interact beneficially rather than harmfully.
In Orillia, the climate is cold, so the vapour barrier is installed on the interior of the house. This prevents moisture from entering the wall cavity, passing through the insulation where it meets the cold wall. Moist warm air, when coming into contact with cold, will create moisture, this is the Dew Point. The vapour barrier, 6 mm in Ontario, is required to prevent moisture in your walls where mould and moisture damage will take place. In tropical climates the reverse would be true. You would want to prevent moist warm air coming into your wall cavity from the exterior and contacting air conditioned cool air, creating moisture in your insulation.
House Wrap – What it Does
House wrap is a breathable membrane installed directly over your home’s plywood or OSB (oriented strand board) sheathing, underneath the exterior finish.
House wrap has been around for over 30 years — since the 1970s energy crisis. It became a hot commodity back when R-2000 homes were introduced to the market in Canada in the 1980s and is now required by code in many cities.
The most commonly used house wraps are made of threads of vinyl on the inside surface of a synthetic sheet. There are also newer types, in a spray-on elastomeric version, that aren’t as common in use.
House wrap works in several important ways. The membrane stops direct moisture, like rainwater from penetrating the plywood or OSB sheathing on the outside of your home, yet allows water vapour from within to migrate outside. Don’t forget, we create a lot of moisture inside by living in the house — breathing, showering, doing the laundry, cooking. Moisture vapour that gets into your wall cavities must be allowed to escape back out through the house wrap, or it will rot the studs and wood inside and lead to mould.
House wrap also stops outside air from penetrating the home. But it is not airtight: It is a breathable membrane. House wrap has no insulation value, but it improves energy efficiency by preventing air leakage. So, it helps retain heat in winter and retains cool, air-conditioned air in summer.
The synthetic house-wrap system replaces the old-fashioned tarpaper membrane used on some older homes, though many older homes only had sheathing without tar paper. Wrap is much more effective and durable and comes in larger rolls than tar paper, making this step of the building process much more cost-effective for a builder.
House wrap comes in a nine-foot-long roll, which helps to avoid seams and gives you a continuous sheet with minimal seams and overlaps. It takes two men less than a day to wrap a small house, with only a stapler and a roll of Tuck Tape. But it isn’t a job for just anyone. It takes experienced contractors to do the job properly and efficiently.
There must be a minimum six-inch to 12-inch overlap at all joints. Every — and I mean every — hole and overlap is sealed tight with tape. If the taping isn’t done properly, the system won’t be effective and you will have air movement and the possibility of water damage.
Details like wrapping the membrane around window and door openings are important, too. Taking the membrane into the inside edge of the frame, which will be covered by window and door trim, guarantees an airtight envelope — providing your contractor does a good job of spraying foam insulation around all windows and doors. The same applies for any accidental tears or holes.
Let’s face it, on a busy construction site, accidents happen.
Don’t let your contractor start covering the house wrap with the external sheathing until you are satisfied every opening is taped over.
Once the house is properly wrapped up in its new windbreaker, it’s all right to apply the finishing layer, the outside coat.
Without this breathable membrane, moisture would collect on the underside of your wood, brick, vinyl or metal siding, as well as on the outside surface of the plywood. In time, this can lead to mould and wood rot, and very expensive repairs.
Foamed Insulation
Buildings using foamed insulation are not required to have vapour barriers installed as the foam is considered to meet the requirements of the Ontario Building Code.
Problems with Building Envelope
The majority of water intrusion through the envelope occurs at material transitions and changes-in-plane. Doors, windows, skylights, electrical boxes, plumbing penetrations, HVAC penetrations and sloppy workmanship are all common causes of breakdowns in your building envelope.
Written by Roger Frost
Repair A Crack In Concrete Or Masonry
A crack in concrete or masonry, left unrepaired, may cause more serious problems and result in a more expensive repair. A crack in a concrete sidewalk or driveway, for example, admits water which can erode and settle the soil under the walk causing the concrete to break or sink. In cold climates, cracks in masonry chimneys, foundations, and virtually any concrete/masonry structure exposed to the weather admit water, which expands as it freezes and widens the crack. A repair will look better, prevent further damage, and, in the case of walks and stairs, may improve safety.
There are three repair options readily available to do-it-yourselfers. In many cases they cannot be considered permanent repairs and may therefore need to be repeated. Large reappearing cracks in a foundation, chimney, or other structural application may indicate a more serious problem that should be evaluated by a structural engineer or concrete/masonry contractor. Here are the DIY repair options we suggest:
Vinyl concrete patching compound, for cracks 1/4 inch or wider;
Pourable grout that is specifically designed for cracks in concrete. It will fill cracks up to 1/2 inch wide but it is especially useful for very narrow cracks (horizontal surfaces only);
Acrylic latex caulk specifically designed for filling concrete and masonry cracks (cracks from 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide).
Caution:
Read product label cautions. Concrete patchers, for example, may cause burns. Protect your skin with the proper clothing and gloves and wear a dust mask and goggles.
Materials Needed:
Protective clothing as needed
Mason’s hammer or small hand sledge hammer
Dust mask, goggles, and gloves
Broom or brush
Mason’s chisel or wire brush
Vinyl concrete patcher and pointing trowel or
Air compressor or canned air
Pourable grout or
Garden hose and nozzle
Acrylic latex textured caulk for concrete, caulking gun, sand or foam backer rod, and trowel
1. Clean the Crack
Whatever your repair approach, you must start with a clean surface for proper bonding. Remove loose materials with a stone chisel or wire brush. Then use an air compressor (if you have one) to blow dust out of the crack – don’t forget to wear goggles and a dust mask – or blast out the dirt with water using a garden hose and nozzle.
Tip:
If your crack is small and you don’t have an air compressor and don’t want to use water to clean out the crack, you can use canned air (commonly used to clean photo and electronic equipment).
2. Undercut Very Wide Cracks
Concrete expands and contracts in response to temperature changes and often the material used to fill a crack will pop out under pressure. The repair will stand a better chance of staying put if you use a 5-lb. sledge or mason’s hammer and mason’s chisel to chip away at the crack until it is wider below the surface than it is at the surface. Practically speaking this is only reasonable to do for crack wider than about 1/2 inch.
3. Fill the Crack
Using vinyl concrete patcher: Prepare only the amount of material that will be used within about 20 minutes. Mix the powder with water as directed, and wet the walls of the crack with a hose or spray bottle. Use a pointing trowel to press the material into the crack in layers no thicker than 1/4 inch. (The material shrinks as it dries, and if you apply too much at a time it will crack!) Allow each layer to dry for at least a few hours before applying the next. When the patch is flush with the surface, hold the trowel flat and use a swirling motion as shown to blend the material into the surrounding surface.
Tip:
If the surface being repaired is rough, such as a sidewalk, brush the patch material with a block of wood or (for an even rougher texture) a stiff broom.
Using textured caulk: Caulk must be applied to a dry surface only. If the crack is deeper than 3/8 inch, fill it to within 3/8 inch of the surface with clean, dry sand (for a horizontal surface) or foam backer rod (for horizontal or vertical surfaces). Cut off the tip of the cartridge on an angle to make a 1/4-in. to 3/8-in. hole. Fill or slightly overfill the crack and then smooth it with a wetted trowel or block of wood.
Using pourable grout: Wet the surface as with concrete patcher (above) and fill deep cracks with sand to within 1/4 inch of the surface, or pour in the grout in layers no more than 1/4 inch thick. Cut the tip of the container off to create a hole a little smaller than the width of the crack. Allow complete drying between applications. Slightly overfill the crack to allow for shrinkage.
Written by Roger Frost
