705-795-8255 Roger@napoleon.cc

Protect Your Pipes From Freezing – Orillia Homes

Living in Canada we have to survive below-freezing winter temperatures that can cause the water in your pipes to freeze, expand and burst your pipes. To help prevent this, install a stop-and-waste valve on the water line to drain water from pipes.
Materials you will need:

Pipe cutter
Steel wool or sandpaper
Lead-free solder
Soldering paste
Torch kit (self igniter preferred)
Length of 1/2" copper pipe
Stop-and-waste valve
1/2" copper fittings
1. Determine a location for the valve on a water line in or near a heated area. The closer to exterior wall the better. Ensure access with torch will not be fire hazard.
2. Shut off the main valve where water comes into your home. Open the lowest fixture in your house to drain out any water.
3. Use a pipe cutter to remove the desired section of pipe. Rotate the pipe cutter around the pipe, gradually tightening it until it cuts through. Place a bucket underneath the cut area to catch any water remaining in the line. Clean any burrs from the end of the cut pipe with steel wool. Cleaning tool is available to clean outside and inside of pipe.
4. Temporarily remove the petcock (small screw) from the valve. If not used to soldering it is also recommended that you remove the valve assemble prior to heating.
Be sure to install the valve in the right direction. An arrow points in the direction of the water flow.
5. Cut a section of copper pipe to the appropriate length. Allow a little extra length for a good fit. Make sure the new pipe is the same diameter as the existing water line (usually 1/2").
6. Use steel wool to clean the pipe end and inside the stop-and-waste valve.
7. Spread soldering flux on the outside of the pipe end and inside the valve fitting.
8. Slide the valve fitting onto the end of the pipe.
Always use safety goggles when working with solder and a torch.
9. Use a propane torch to heat the fitting and the pipe where they connect. For best results, hold the edge of the blue flame right against the pipe.
10. Push approximately 2" of solder into the joint where the valve connects to the pipe. The heat will melt the solder and allow it to seep into the connection. Solder completely around the pipe-valve connection.
Practice the soldering technique on scrap pieces of pipe and copper fittings before trying it on the valve.
11. Use the same soldering techniques to install the new assembly to the water line.
Depending on the installation, it may be necessary to use inexpensive copper fittings to connect new sections of pipe to the existing water line. These fittings are widely available in different configurations and diameters.
Replace the petcock ( and valve assemble if removed ), and open the main water line to check for leaks.
Before temperatures dip below freezing, shut off the valve, and open any spigots that are "downstream." Then remove the petcock screw to drain the pipe. Use bucket to collect drained water.
If any sections of pipe "upstream" of the new valve are in an unheated area, cover them with foam pipe insulation.

This valuable tips are brought to you by the Orillia Home Inspector and was Written by Roger Frost

Mike Holmes and The Home Inspection

 

Mike Holmes, from Holmes on Homes, had an interesting show on TV the other night. Typical situation, older couple had purchased an older home that had had a lot of work done on it but did have a Home Inspection prior to purchasing. The estimated cost at the end of the show was $100,000.00 in repairs and upgrades. These people had no experience in home owning or renovations and placed all their trust in the Home Inspector. Too bad they didn’t spend any time checking out his qualifications, they would have probably found he was one of the latest people to jump into the “lucrative” home inspection industry with little of no training.

 

The visible signs that were missed were poor electrical installations, poor plumbing venting and drains, smell of sewage, smell of mold in basement. The furnace was on it last legs and the water from the sump pump was running back into the house. The house had had a lot of renovations done and apparently no permits had been taken out, indicating a handy man had probably done most of the work.

 

Once the proper inspection started taking place the visual clues led to further investigation which necessitated the removal of drywall and carpet to expose even more problems. The electrical in the house ended up being totally redone with some of the wiring exhibiting charring which could have caused a fire at any time. The hot water tank and furnace were exhausting into the chimney which was totally open on the first floor allowing dangerous gases to enter the home and could have even caused death. The basement plumbing had to be completely redone and vented. An abandoned open well was discovered in the front yard which had to be filled in. The carpet, when raised, was covered in mold and one area of the house had thousands of carpenter ants living in the basement wall.

 

Obviously this home inspector was poorly trained and probably had no prior experience in home building or renovation. There are factory workers in our area who have taken part-time night courses and are now promoting themselves as professional home inspectors. As always CAVEAT EMPTOR –BUYER BEWARE

 

The home owner has to bear some responsibility here as they have to ensure that the people they hire are in fact qualified and experienced enough to perform the work required. Unfortunately in this case it was only the home owner who paid the price, but that is result of having an un-regulated industry where anyone can promote themselves as a professional.

Written by Roger Frost

Preparing for your Home Inspection

Preparing for Your Home Inspection

Preparing for your home inspection is a very important part of the selling process.  We offer some tips that will make that process less stressful and possibily save you money.

This first section will deal with home owners who are still living in their homes and will be having a home inspection to have condition removed from Real Estate Offer.

Ensure your annual maintenance items have been done, which are not limited but can include the following:

  • Check all eaves troughs to ensure not blocked, splash pads are installed correctly, downspout supports are intact, no low areas in area of discharge, gutters are well supported and not sagging.Orillia-Home-Inspections
  • Basement window wells are debris free, drains are filled with clean stone or covered with screen, screens are intact and correctly installed.
  • Exterior siding is secured. Re-secure any loose pieces of siding, this can sometimes be as simple as snapping back into place or sliding siding into neutral position to cover gaps from expansion or contraction.
  • Re-caulk any exposed holes on doors, windows, exterior electrical fixture, flashing and any area where water entry may be a concern.
  • Re-level any patio stones that have heaved from frost.
  • Replace any rotted boards on wood decks and porches. Ensure all hand rails are secure with all guards being secured.
  • Check your attic to see if any problems have occurred from last inspection or if any work was done, that insulation was properly replaced.
  • Test your GFCI outlets and ensure they trip and reset. These will be located on exterior outlets and all bathrooms in newer homes. Newer homes will have arc fault protected devices in bedroom and kitchen, which should also be tested.
  • Open and close all your doors and windows to ensure proper latching and operation. Check for door stops and any holes created by door knobs hitting drywall. Repair and Replace as required. Most problems can be fixed with minor adjustments.
  • Check all your lighting fixtures to ensure proper operation.
    Check your sump pump to ensure it has a proper fitting cover and will operate when tested.
  • Check your furnace filter and replace if dirty or ripped.
  • Check all your visible wiring in basements to ensure cables are not touching any hot air ducts. There is no issue with wires touching cold air returns.
  • Make sure your electrical panel and attic hatch will be both accessible by home inspector. Most professional inspectors will definitely inspect both.
  • You might want to have mason or siding installer repair any visible cracks, missing, chipped, damaged or loose brick or siding. This cost will be taken into account by any prospective buyer and having done prior to selling only improves your homes look and value.

This section will list some of the more common issues usually found.

Water and Moisture Problems

Most new home purchasers in the Orillia area place water and moisture damage high on their list of items they want identified. It would only make sense to look for any visible concerns and have them repaired prior to listing your home.

Covering sump holes and removing any source of water and moisture will usually also eliminate the unpleasant odour associated with moisture problems. Remove any old stains that might be present from past leaks or renovation projects. Installing new drywall and painting is preferable to leaving water marked material or rotted drywall material exposed to view.

Inspect your bathrooms and look for any mildew or water staining. Check caulking around bathtubs, showers, sinks and floor joints. If your bathroom window is in your shower area, inspect for rotted wood and missing caulking. Replace and repaint as necessary.

Garage Inspection

Two items that pop up during inspections is the fume barrier and door closure in the garage. Newer homes are required to have fume barrier between shared walls separating living area and garage. Most homes have drywall which is required to be taped but not painted. Check your walls and ceiling as patch any holes or gaps that have occurred. The other item that is required when newer homes are built is the automatic door closure on the interior door. This is required at construction but can be removed by home owners at their own discretion. This item will be noted at time of inspection.

Attic Inspection

The attic will be checked for adequate insulation and proper ventilation. Many home owners will enter their attic to install pot lights or ceiling fans etc and fail to replace insulation when finished. Even some in-experienced home inspectors will tramp around the attic and compress or move insulation without replacing.Soffit baffles should be installed in any attic where the insulation can block soffit ventilation area between sheathing and installed insulation. This can lead to ice dams and premature shingle replacement.

Electrical Panel

Check your panel for neatness. No visible open holes in panel, wires neatly stapled and circuits clearly identified. If you are un-sure about any of these items I would recommend having a certified electrician inspect and make any necessary repairs.  Improperly installed electrical wiring and fixtures are a sure sign that work has been done without permits.   If your home has a Federal Pioneer panel board you may have breakers that require replacement.  Read more.

Renovations

Have any inspection and building permits that were taken out for renovations. If any work, maintenance, service or upgrades were performed on any of your homes systems; it is a good idea to have these items available for prospective buyers. This will allay any fears that your home had work performed by un-qualified personnel.

Real Estate Agent

Your listing real estate agent can be one of your best resources for identifying items that will cause concern and affect the sale value of your home. Take the time to thoroughly inspect every part of your home with your agent and repair all questionable items prior to listing.

This is Not Complete List of Items

This list is not a complete list of items that can or should be checked. The average home can have countless more items that could and should be repaired prior to listing your home, this is just a brief overview that lists some items found during an average home inspection. My Pre-delivery inspections of new homes would probably average out at thirty items per inspection, with many of the same items being found in most homes but some items unique to that one particular home.

Caveat Emptor – Buyer Beware

Experience and training can not be accomplished over-night, always verify who your hiring.

Green Building – Consumer Information

Green Buildings – NACHI excerpts

 

Many new buildings have features such as passive solar design, photovoltaic systems and solar thermal systems. With the new energy awareness that has been created and the governments involvement in promoting green energy saving concepts, green will be introduced to more homes and systems. The energy consumed by homes if roughly 40% in the United States of America and will become a principal target for controlling sky-rocketing energy costs. Up to 85% of the energy used today is non-renewable and is not projected to change in the foreseeable future.

Passive design refers to home design which uses natural methods of heating and cooling, and which requires few or no mechanical devices and minimal or no consumption of other fuel. 

Heating

Passive solar heating uses the sun’s energy to heat a home. Typically, the home is designed and oriented to collect sunshine through large, south-facing windows. Sunlight shines into the home onto materials with high thermal mass , such as concrete, masonry or stone, which absorb sunshine and store it as heat, slowly releasing it over time to warm the home interior.

 Active solar heating uses the sun’s energy to heat a home, but heat is distributed through the home with the help of mechanical equipment such as fans, requiring the use of some electricity.

Green Improvements

LOW-FLOW TOILETS

Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can save an average of two gallons-per-flush (gpf), or 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have 1.6 gpf marked on the bowl behind the seat or marked inside the tank.

Another method for reducing the volume of water used with each flush is to install a water-filled plastic bag (called a displacement bag ) in the water tank. The old version of the displacement bag was a brick. 

Protecting the Home Foundation 

Moisture allowed to penetrate next to the foundation can cause several problems:

Softening the soil : Moist soil may be less able to support the weight of the structure above. Ontario Building Code requires larger footings in moist or un-disturbed soil.

Expansive soil : Certain types of soil, especially certain types of clay, expand to many times their original size as they absorb moisture. Expansive soil can easily damage foundations.

Foundation undermining : E nough moisture flowing under a foundation can carry away soil and leave the foundation unsupported in areas.

Microbial growth : Moisture allowed to collect in crawlspaces and basements may create conditions which encourage the growth of microbes such as mould fungus and soil-borne bacteria which may represent potential health hazards. 

Slope Grade Away from Foundation

Grade around the home perimeter should slope away from the foundation for at least six feet. The slope should effectively route surface run-off away from the foundation.

Hillside Run-Off

Homes built on hillsides should have a feature installed which will route surface runoff away from the foundation. Swales and drainage ditches are two commonly used methods.

Planting Beds

Planting beds located next to the home may create problems by holding moisture next to the foundation.

Downspouts

To minimize erosion and route run-off away from the foundation, downspouts should have extensions or should terminate at a perimeter drain or splashblock. Some method should be used to prevent erosion.

Engineered Lumber

Engineered wood products use recycled/reconstituted wood chips or strands and finger-jointing (the process of gluing larger pieces of wood together) to produce a variety of building products such as structural framing lumber and trim material.

Waste wood and entire trees can be used to produce products, regardless of species and age.

Engineered wood is generally straighter, more stable and more structurally consistent than dimensional lumber. In joist and rafter applications, the reconstituted products are particularly useful because they can span long distances with less sagging than similarly-sized conventional lumber.

Cost

Engineered wood is generally more expensive than dimensional lumber, but cost is offset to some degree by labor savings and improved quality.

Types of Engineered Lumber

 

Oriented Strand Board (OSB)

OSB has replaced plywood in many applications. It is manufactured using waterproof heat-cured adhesives and rectangular-shaped, aligned wood strands.  Strand direction changes in each layer in a manner similar to the way the veneers within a sheet of plywood alternate direction. This results in a structural engineered wood panel that shares many of the strength and performance characteristics of plywood

 

Finger-jointed Studs

Finger-jointed studs are manufactured by milling tightly-fitted joints into short pieces of lumber which would otherwise be considered scrap. These short pieces are glued together using a method that creates joints that are stronger than the wood. Joints will lose strength, though, if material is not protected from weather.

 

I-beams

I-beams are framing members typically used as floor joists and sometimes as rafters. They are “I” shaped in cross section, dimensionally stable, available in a variety of structural ratings and are produced in lengths up to 60 feet. They consist of a plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) web to which a top and bottom chord is attached, usually either 2 x 2, 2 x 3 or 2 x 4, depending on the structural rating of the I-beam.

Microlams

To produce Microlam® Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL), sheets of veneer peeled from logs are carefully dried, ultrasonically graded for strength, and evaluated to ensure uniform thickness and moisture content. The sheets are coated with adhesive, layered, and subjected to heat and pressure to achieve a permanent bond. As with I-beams, Microlams are available in long lengths.

Glu-Lams

Glu-Lams are beams manufactured by gluing together layers of dimensional lumber. Engineered beams are typically more stable and stronger than similar sized dimensional beams and can be manufactured with a camber . Glu-Lam beams can also be manufactured in large sizes which would be much more expensive if milled from a solid piece of wood. Glu-Lams are often left exposed. Building beams by laminating smaller pieces of dimensional lumber allows for more efficient use of wood and helps save trees.

Parallams

Parallams are engineered wood beams manufactured by gluing together aligned wood strands and bonding them using a microwave process.

 

Wall Framing

Wood and steel wall framing members act as thermal bridge s in transmitting heat through the building envelope. Value engineering uses two methods for reducing heat transfer from thermal bridging.

A thermal break is a layer of insulation which interrupts the conduction of heat through building envelope framing members.

Reducing the number of framing members in the building envelope. By installing studs on 24-inch centers instead of 16-inch centers, fewer studs are used, which means a greater percentage of the overall exterior wall, floor or roof cavities will be filled with insulation. 

Structural Insulated Panels (SIP’s)

Structural insulated panels are high performance building panels used in floors, walls, and roofs in residential and light commercial buildings. They are an alternative to conventional framing methods.

The panels are made by sandwiching a core of rigid foam plastic insulation between two structural skins of oriented strand board (OSB). Other skin material can be used for specific purposes. SIPs are manufactured under factory-controlled conditions and can be custom designed for each home. The result is a building system that is extremely strong and energy efficient because there are no wall studs to transmit home heat to the outside. Panels are available in a variety of sizes, thicknesses and core/skin materials.

Insulating Concrete Forms   (ICFs)

Insulating concrete forms are forms for poured concrete walls which are designed to remain in place as a permanent part of the wall assembly.

The forms, made of a foam similar to Styrofoam, are made up of pre-formed, hollow, interlocking blocks. As blocks are assembled, rebar is installed, and then concrete is poured to fill the cavities, so that once the concrete is dry it forms a post and beam grid inside the blocks.

In addition to providing a continuous insulation and sound barrier, the foam forms have plastic strips embedded which provide a means for attaching interior and exterior wall coverings.

Insulation

Insulation is rated by its thermal resistance, called R-value, which indicates its resistance to heat flow. Higher R-values indicate greater effectiveness at reducing heat flow. The R-value of thermal insulation depends on the type of insulating material, its thickness and its density. Installing more insulation in a home increases its R-value and helps keep heat from moving through the building envelope.

The total wall assembly R-value will depend upon what materials are installed in the wall, floor or roof assembly , not just the R-value of the insulation. In calculating the R-value of a multiple-layered wall, floor or roof assembly , the R-values of the individual layers are added together.  The R-value of a wall assembly is also affected by the quality of the installation and the properties of the insulation material.

To a certain extent, more tightly-packed wall cavities will allow less air-flow through the wall assembly, which reduces the amount of heat flow since air carries heat.

Insulation packed too tightly will lose some of its effectiveness because most insulation works by trapping air in microscopic air pockets. When these tiny pockets are crushed, R-value is reduced.

Insulation is also affected by thermal bridging . Thermal bridging commonly occurs where framing members in the building envelope interrupt the insulation. Wood studs have an R-value of approximately R-1 per inch. Fibreglass insulation is approximately R-3.3 per inch. This means that studs will conduct heat through the wall more quickly than the insulation, forming a thermal “bridge” between the conditioned air interior and the exterior.

Because heat rises, ceilings and attics typically have more insulation installed than walls or floors

Air Movement in Buildings

The building envelope consists of those parts of the floor, wall and roof assemblies designed to control the loss of conditioned air. Conditioned air refers to air which has been warmed, cooled or had moisture added to or removed from it.

Building science refers to the study of how moisture, heat and air move through buildings and how their movement affects human health, comfort and the cost of operating homes. Air movement is an important influence on indoor environments because air commonly moves across building envelopes. We want to keep control of indoor air quality, and air movement across the building envelope has the potential to affect the quality of indoor air dramatically.

Circular air movement occuring within a building envelope is called circulation. Air movement across the building envelope is called infiltration if air is moving into the conditioned space and exfiltration if it is moving out.

Air movement in a home can create uncomfortable moisture or temperature levels, or introduce dust, pollen, mold spores, radon or other pollutants or health hazards into indoor air.

INDOOR AIR MOVEMENT

Air movement through the building envelope is caused by the following:

Depressurization of buildings by mechanical ventilation devices and the combustion process.

Poorly-balanced HVAC systems –heating and cooling equipment both use blowers to distribute conditioned air throughout buildings. Depending on how well the system is balanced, this can establish air pressure differences in various parts of a building, which can cause air to move in or out through the building envelope. 

Ventilation fans for bathrooms, laundries and range hoods all push conditioned air to the outside which must be replaced. Typically, this make-up air has come from air infiltration around doors and windows and through other gaps in the building envelope. 

Combustion processes in appliances such as boilers, furnaces, heating stoves and water heaters. They pull air from the home interior as they exhaust the products of combustion to the exterior.

Temperature differentials between indoor and outdoor air.

Thermal buoyancy describes the action of air as it is warms. Because heated air is less dense it rises, moving from a cool, high-density area toward a warm, low-density area.

Stack effect describes the action of warm air rising through a building. As warm air rises, it pulls cold make-up air into the home through the lower building envelope and pushes warm air out through the upper building envelope. This can have a significant effect on homes, pulling undesirable hot or cold air, moisture or environmental pollutants and hazards (radon) into the home.

Convection currents , or the movement of cooler air being pulled in to replace rising warm air, will establish convection currents at any place in the home in which significant temperature differences exist.  This occurs mainly in living space and attics. Supply and return registers are key points of temperature differences, but also key points of pressure differences caused by Make-Up Air

As air is exhausted from the home by the methods mentioned above, it must be replaced by make-up air. Unless ventilation devices are deliberately installed to provide make-up air, it will be pulled into the home through the building envelope. Uncontrolled make-up air may carry with it excessive moisture or heat (or lack of heat). It may infiltrate from the exterior, the crawlspace or the attic.

In extremely tightly built homes, make-up air has been supplied from sewers after water was sucked out of the plumbing traps. Installing a Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) or Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) offers more control over the supply of make-up air, allows for more efficient use of heating and cooling equipment and reduces heating and cooling costs

Heat and Energy Recovery Ventilators

Inspecting HRVs and ERVs lies beyond the scope of a General Home Inspection, but inspectors should be able to recognize them.

HRVs use a heat exchanger to transfer heat between home exhaust-air and make-up air without allowing the two airstreams to mix. This exchange pre-warms (or pre-cools) make-up air, which in turn lowers heating and cooling costs.

ERVs perform the same function but in addition, they also transfer moisture. Systems are available in different sizes in order to maintain as closely as possible an ideal 3.5 air changes per hour .

HRVs and ERVs are typically installed in line with the home heating/cooling ducts and may include filtration devices such as High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filters.

Air Barriers

Air barriers are assemblies or components designed to resist the flow of air through the building envelope by resisting air pressure differences. They may consist of sealed drywall, exterior wall sheathing or even tightly-packed insulation (sprayed cellulose or foam). They may be installed anywhere in the wall, floor or ceiling assembly, and toward the exterior or interior.

Air barriers should be:

  • impermeable to air flow.
  • continuous around the entire building or living space perimeter.
  • permeable to water vapor–moisture impermeable barriers may cause condensation problems.
  • substantial enough to withstand the forces that may act on them during and after construction.
  • durable over the projected lifetime of the building.

Photovoltaic (PV) Systems

Photovoltaic (PV) is the term used to describe systems which convert sunlight directly into electricity. To collect sunlight, PV systems use either panels or shingles, although panels are much more common. Individual PV panels are called “modules” and a number of modules can be mounted together on racks to form an “array.”

An array may consist of modules connected together in a single string, or modules may be connected to form several strings within the array. This is important because shading one module in a string will shut down the rest of the modules in that string. If all the modules in an entire array are connected to form only one string, the entire array could be shut down by shading one module.

PV systems have no moving parts, have 20-year plus lifespans and no negative environmental impact once they’re installed. Typical panels are now around 15% efficient, although panels not yet publicly available approach 30% efficiency.

To help avoid this problem, some systems provide a “combiner box” in which electrical connections for individual modules are made inside an electrical panel mounted in an easily accessible.

Two types of PV systems are available, grid-tie and battery back-up.

GRID-TIE SYSTEMS

A “grid-tie” system is one in which, in a home conventionally connected to utility company power supplies, a special electric meter is installed which can spin both forward and backward, often called a “net meter”. When the PV system is producing more power than the home uses, the meter will spin in reverse.  Utility companies review the results annually and if the system owner has produced more electricity than they have used, they typically receive compensation. Compensation agreements between PV system owners and utility companies vary.

It is typical for the utility to sell electricity to consumers at a price of, as an example, 11 cents per Kilowatt hour (KWh), but will pay only a wholesale price of 4 cents per KWh to PV system owners who produce an annual surplus.

One of the disadvantages of the grid-tie system is that if the home loses power from the utility company, the PV system is designed to shut down automatically also, meaning that the home will be without electricity as long as no power is supplied from the utility provider. This feature is designed to protect utility employees working on power lines, since power from the PV system not used at the home goes out the service wires, through the transformer on the pole and into the utility companies’ electrical distribution system.

Inspection of PV Systems

Complete inspection of a PV system requires a qualified specialist. PV systems can produce lethal amperages and home inspectors without special training specific to PV should under no circumstances  imply that they perform complete PV inspections. Proper grounding and bonding methods are crucial, line-side taps are not unusual and dangerous conditions my not be obvious to inspectors who feel comfortable inspecting conventional home electrical systems but are not PV-qualified.

 

Lighting: Bulb and Fixture Types

Energy Use in Home Lighting

Lighting accounts for 30% to 50% of a building’s energy use, or about 17% of total annual U.S. electricity consumption. Ninety percent of the energy emitted by incandescent bulbs is in the form of heat, and only 10% is in the form of light. This means that not only is money wasted on inefficient lighting, but using incandescent bulbs lights increases cooling costs. 

 

There are many ways to build Green and with the change in our economy the government will be funding more efficient means of conserving energy. Ontario’s Premier has already indicated that they will not allow NIMBY’s ( Not In My Back Yard) to influence siting of energy saving or green initiatives. The wind turbines being located off the Scarborough bluffs is an example of Ontario’s determination to move forward with Green projects.

 For Wood Burning information visit WETT Inspections